Detailed information about the ODOP product

 

VENKATAGIRI SAREES

Glorious Past:-

                The Velugoti dynasty patronized weaving activities at Venkatagiri 300 years back. A group of about 40 weavers were supported by the Velugoti dynasty for the exclusive purpose of weaving dhoti and turbans made of soft cotton, with sophisticated embroidery to the Royal family. Gradually, the weavers started moving into saree making which was exclusively made for the queens, royal women and other Zamindaris. The erstwhile kingdoms of Bobbli and Pithapuram, Challapalli & SriKalahasti also encouraged the making of Venkatagiri sarees. Fine Cotton fabrics, namely the Khandvas, Angavastrams, Dhothis and Sarees were woven for the royal family’s consumption, using the 200 counts of cotton yarn.

 

                Folklore about the origin of the Handloom weaving at Venkatgiri is that Venkatadri Naidu was a staunch supporter of Marshall Arts. He periodically organised local events and awarded the winners with god / silver  laced border turbans. Initially the turbans were sourced from Vizianagaram, later the king deputed few weavers for learning the art of weaving. The weavers learned the art of weaving and slowly started practising the gold / silver laced turbans. Gradually the events were witnessed by the queens, who expressed their desire of possessing such fabrics for their daily utilities.   

 

According to the Gazetteer of the Nellore District, brought in 1938 by Government of Madras, there are about 12,000 looms in the district. Weaving is the hereditary occupation   exclusively of certain class of people, viz, Padmashali, Devangas, Karnasalas, Thogotas, Pattusalis, and Adi – Andhras. With the exception of few handlooms used by the Adi-Andhras for weaving coarse cloths, all the looms in the district are fitted with fly shuttles. Silk weaving in the district is in the form of Artificial silk, on a small scale in Stonehousepet of Nellore town. A most favorite variety of the cloth woven and produced in large quantities is the “Kalli”, which is a narrow cloth striped lengthwise and mostly worn by Mohmmadans as loin cloth. A similar variety is the “Silas” which resembles the Kalli but is better. A third variety is Pattimarupu, the Madras hand kerchief with stripped squares in red and yellow and fancy colors generally exported to European countries. Cotton sarees are woven in few places in Kandakur and Kavali talukas. White clothes in fine counts of 100’s, to 200’s are woven only in few places in the district, viz, Buchhireddipalem and Yellayapalem of Kovur taluka and Venkatagiri. Though there are a hundred looms in each of the first two villages, only 5 looms in Yellayapalem and about 10 in Buchireddipalem produce fine count fabrics. The other looms produce Kalli clothes. In Venkatagiri town, 200 looms are engaged in making Venkatagiri lace bordered fabrics and these looms are situated in the Moolasala veedhi, which contains about 100 families of Padmashali weavers. Patronized by the Rajas and rich landed proprietors, Venkatagiri became a centre for fine clothes but owing to change in fashion and the influx of the silk cloths and cloths with beautiful designs in lace, there is not much demand for the fine cloths of the local make. Buchireddipalem which is a place of rich land owners is another place where lace is used. In Yellayapalem, ‘Mavidi Anchu’ or plain thick bordered cloths are made. Each family works by itself. In Venkatagiri & Buchireddipalem, master weavers give work to other weavers, while in Yellaypalem the weavers make cloth for the local Kapus who place order with them. The cloths are of fine texture and do not shrink when washed. At one time there was large demand for them both locally and from outside. Nellore cloth merchants, used to place orders, but lately, owing to the introduction of cheap silk clothes and Salem cloths, the demand has been gradually diminishing and the weavers have taken to the weaving of Kallis for the Madras market, giving up the making of the old variety of the fine clothes. Yellayapalem has completely taken to Kalli weaving, while Buchireddipalem is yet weaving the fine clothes to meet the small demand in Nellore and Kovur Talukas. The Padmashali weavers of Venkatagiri have not given up the weaving of the fine pattern of cloth, notwithstanding the low wages obtained for the work. Lace bordered Kandavas or Angavastrams measuring 6 cubits by 50 inches are woven in Venkatagiri. Six kandavas are woven in one warp in six days, the wages being Rs 5/- (during the year 1938). Excluding the winding, warping, and sizing charges, and charges for putting them on loom, the weaver gets, Rs 3.40 for six days ( during the year 1938). The cost of the cloth varies according to the quality of the yarn and lace used. The   Buchireddipalem and Yellayapalem weavers sourced the yarns and lace from Nellore, whereas the Venkatagiri weavers source them from Madras. The cloths made in Venkatagiri are handed over to the Master weavers who export them to Madras, Nellore, Cuddapah, and Chittoor districts.

According to the Census of 1961, as many as 29,072 persons are pursuing the occupation of Spinning, Weaving and allied works in the district. At the beginning of the 1970, there were 59 weaver’s co-operative societies in the district with a total membership of 6,793 and a share capital of Rs 5.74 lakhs. These societies owned 6,966 looms. From the focused group discussion reveals that a golden era started for the district Handloom sector from the mid sixties as export of American shirting in the fine counts and also that of Real Madras Handkerchief in the coarser counts. Though the export of American shirting was short, but the export of Real Madras Handkerchief to Nigeria, persisted till the collapse of Nigerian economy   in the early eighties. 

              As per the Andhra Pradesh District Gazetteers, Nellore published in 1977, published by the O/o District Gazetteers, Govt of A.P, the Nellore district has around 60,000 handlooms in the district. The centres particularly noted for this industry in the district are Venkatgiri, Bangarupeta, and Mopur of Venkatagiri Taluka, Manubolu, Kasumur, Madamanuru, Akkampeta, Indukurpeta, Malpadu and Pallepadu of Nellore. Venjivaka and Gudali of Gudur, Kaluvoy and Thatipatri of Atmakur, Buchireddipalem, Yellayapalem and Kovur of Kovur, and Naidupaeta of Sullurpet. Cotton weaving in this district is of two types, namely cloths made out of (1) Handspun yarn (2) Mill yarn. The main product consist of super fine saris, dhotis, lace bordered Kanduvalu or Angavastramulu, Kallis, Lungis, Madras Handkerchief, known as Pattimarupua and shirting cloth. Of these, the saris of Venkatagiri which are woven with the yarn of finer counts ranging from 120s to 250s excel in pattern and design and are unique in their appearance with the gold lace. They are in great demand in and outside the state. Cloth woven with the coarse yarn is thick in texture and worn chiefly by the agriculturists in the district, while other products after meeting the local requirements are exported to the neighboring Tamilnadu state.

 

Present Scenario:-

 

Statistical Figures:- The district has around 44 primary weaver co-operative societies (PWCS), spread out in the 126 villages of 36 mandals of the district. A total of 9473 Households are engaged in the weaving and allied activities. The activities are mainly clustered in the ten mandals namely Venkatagiri, Nellore Rural, A.S.Peta, Sangam, Kovuru, Guduru, Podalakuru, Buchhireddipalem, Vinjamuru and Dakkilli (Marlaguda). It is noted that out of the total PWCS only 13 of them are noted to be in working condition. The working PWCS, regularly file the statutory returns to the O/o Assistant Director H&T, Government of AP.

 

Clustering:- Venkatagiri alone constitutes the one third of the district handloom industry. Out of the total 44 PWCS, in the district, a total of the 18 PWCS exist in and around Venkatagiri. Similarly 3064 weaver Households of the district total 9473 weaver households are at Venkatagiri. 

Raw Material Transition:- The super fine count of 200 s count yarn was imported from Manchester, later from Italy. With the ban in the imports and with very limited production of the 120 s count of cotton yarn the weavers have started to adjust with the 100 s count and now even with the 80s  count of cotton yarn. 

Markets: – Marketing of the Venkatagiri handlooms to the royal families in the Kolkata, Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai & Kerala stared in the year 1964. The industry scaled almost new heights during the eighties and nineties, with the record production of fabrics for the export as well as for the local consumption, and by this time the product has reached to the middle class consumer. The highlight of the marketing mechanism is that even in the past and in the current scenario, the bulk marketing is by door to door sales, by the small scale master weavers, rather than limiting to the direct supply to the shops. At present the entire coastal belt of Andhra Pradesh is the main potential market for the cotton segment and the Telangana region along with the other major national markets like Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai, Chennai and Bangalore for the silk segment.

The Product:- Venkatgiri fabric means a plain cotton fabric with pure zari stripe border. The initial products were in the forms of turbans, angavastrams, dhotis, Khanduavas, later changed to plain cotton saree, and then to Jamdhani cotton saree. Over the period of time experimentation has been carried out by introducing new fibers like gas mercerized Cotton yarn, Silk yarns. The recent development is weaving of Wall hangings with the cotton and silk yarns in Jamdhani technique. The industry has always been very flexible adopting changes in tune to the changing as per the facet of the time and markets. In the initial stages, pure zari was used in every fabric, which has now come to half fine zari.

 

Finances Critical Gap:- The district and also the Venkatagiri handloom industry, is by and large dominated by the master weavers with the dormant role of the co-operatives. One of the possible reasons for the poor and dull status of the PWCS at Venkatgiri and so also in the district seems to be non availability of asset and required /sufficient cash credits. From the FGD it is learnt that the DCCB was placed under section 11A, during the early nineties, disqualifying the re-finance mechanism from the APCOB and in turn from NABARD. This has pushed the weavers hard, as except the master weaver there is no other way for the weaver to arrange finances.  The bankers have been very choosy in giving new loans to the artisans, even for the artisan credit card holders. Master weavers give credits to the tune of Rs 1.00 lakh, of which Rs 30,000/- is interest free and other 70% is on interest as per prevailing market rate. 

Skill & Awards:- The Venkatagiri handloom industry is highly popular at the national level for the weaver inherent skills which is reflected in the number of the national awards won by the weaver artisans. The weavers have very high skills of weaving finer counts, starting from the 200s fine counts, apart from the inherent internal designing skills. The ancestral weaver families of Singaresi & Vijaya of this region are known for their enormous weaving skills in the Jamdhani. These weavers introduced the Jamdhani in Venkatgiri, which later scaled up in production and spread to the other parts of the state. 

 

Geographical location

The art of weaving Venkatgiri Sarees is practiced at Bangarpet, Manulalpeta, Ranipeta, Molasaliveedhi, NTR colony, B.C.Colony and in the neighboring villages of the Venkatagiri town, of Nellore district, Andhra Pradesh. In the Venkatagiri town the art of weaving is practiced at 3064 households, on around 2500 looms. Venkatagiri is located in the southern most part of the district and  is strategically an important business location with ease to move to four prominent locations namely, Chennai, Tirupathi, Kanipakam and the district HQ Nellore. From Venkatgiri, Chennai is 145 kms, Nellore is 80 kms, Tirupathi is around 60 kms and Kanipakam is 122kms.  Venkatagiri is surrounded by YSR District in the west, and the Chitoor district in the South. The town has a railway station, but Venkatagiri is 40 kms away from the main rail route connecting Chennai with Howrah and Delhi.  It is connected to Nellore by  both by train and bus routes.

Venkatagiri	It is a Mandal HQ and municipality, located 80 kms away from Nellore, the district H.Q.in Andhra Pradesh.
Coordinates	13º 58’ North,  79º- 35 East
Population	51,498 Male 25612 & Female 25886
Time zone	IST (UTC +5.30)
Pin code	524 132
Temperature	Max 46.7º C & Min.14.4º C
South West Monsoon (More rainfall)	June to September 31% of the annual normal rainfall
North East Monsoon	October to November: 50% of the annual normal rainfall.
Literacy rate	Over all Rate 67%

 

Product Profile & Product Specifications – nu

The main product of Venkatgiri  is Venkatgiri sariee. These are basically of two types, the zari bordered sarees and the Jamdani in cotton. The other technical details are as under:-  

 

Sr.No.	Name of the Product	Particulars
1	Plain Cotton Saree with Zari border	Warp  Warp Count Weft Weft Count Length Width Reed Pick Zari Description	Cotton 100 s Cotton 100 s 5.50 mtr & 6.20 mtr 46- 47 inches 80 70 Red & White; Half fine Saree are available with & without blouse
2	Mercerised Cotton Saree with Zari border	Warp  Warp Count Weft Weft Count Length Width Reed Pick Zari Description	Cotton 100 s Mercerized Cotton 2/ 120 s 5.50 mtr & 6.20 mtr 46- 47 inches 80 70 Red & White; Half fine Saree are available with & without blouse
3	Cotton – Silk  Saree with Zari border	Warp  Warp Count Weft Weft Count Length Width Reed Pick Zari Description	Cotton 100 s Silk 3 ply, 18 – 20 Denier 5.50 mtr & 6.20 mtr 46- 47 inches 80 70 Red & White Half Fine Saree are available with & without blouse.
4	Plain Silk Saree with Zari Border	Warp  Warp Count Weft Weft Count Length Width Reed Pick Description	Silk 2ply (18 -20 ) Denier Silk 3ply (18 -20 ) Denier 5.50 mtr, 6.20 mtr 46 – 47Inches 84 60 Half fine White or Red Zari borders.
5	Cotton Jamdhani Saree with Zari Border	Warp  Warp Count Weft Weft Count Length Width Reed Pick Description	Cotton 100 s Cotton 100 s 5.50 mtr & 6.20 mtr 46- 47 inches 80 70 Red & White; Half fine Saree are available with & without blouse
6	Silk Jamdhani Saree with Zari Border	Warp  Warp Count Weft Weft Count Length Width Reed Pick Description	Silk 2ply (18 -20 ) Denier Silk 3ply (18 -20 ) Denier 5.50 mtr, 6.20 mtr 46 – 47Inches 84 60 Half fine White or Red Zari borders.

 

Production Process:-

 

Raw Material:-

 

The basic raw materials used are, Pure cotton yarn, Mulberry Silk Yarns , Zari threads in silver and gold, Dyes-two kinds-Naphthol and Vat. Cotton is obtained locally from spinning mills from Coimbatore and other places and are mostly of 100 s count. The cotton is brought in hank form and is then processed further for the purpose of weaving. The cotton hank yarns are procured from the cotton yarn traders at Nellore, from NHDC (National Handloom Development Corporation Ltd.) and also directly from the local mills of state namely, Tanuku or Kakinada occasionally. The silk yarns are sourced from Bangalore directly. The silver and gold zari is procured from Surat in Gujarat. The dye stuff is procured by the dyers either from the local shops, or from Nellore, and occasionally from Chirala.

The Raw Material 100s Cotton Yarn

 

Dyeing:-

The silk yarn dyeing and other preparatory activities are carried out at Kanchipuram and the Cotton Dyeing is performed at Venkatagiri.

 

 

 

 

 

Grey Cotton Yarn:-

 

Scouring:-

On the first day of the process, in the evening hours, hundred litres of water is boiled for one hour with 25 gram of soda for one peti of yarn. Hank yarn is unpacked at a time and soaked in the boiled solution for another one and half hour. The same is retained till the next morning. The next day morning the yarn is taken out squeezed and kept ready for washing. 

Washing:-
The scoured yarn is thoroughly washed in a separate tank by adding fresh water after taking out the soap water to remove the dust and any impurities before it is transferred to the dye bath.

Dyeing:-

 

                Here in the cluster there are three types of dyeing:-

1. VAT Dyeing :- VAT dyeing is used for light & medium colors
2. Napthol Dyeing:- It is used for dyeing dark colors.

The dye stuff is procured by the dyers either from the local shops, or from Nellore, and occasionally from Chirala.

Dyeing of VAT colors:-

                For VAT colors, 50 grams of dye stuff (Color powder) is needed for dyeing 1 peti yarns in of case of dark colors, whereas for Medium colors, it is 25 grams. Dye bath solution is prepared in 5 liters of hot water, using color, 100 – 160 grams of Caustic soda, 100 – 160 grams of Hydros.  This solution is kept separately and appropriate quantity of dye solution is mixed in water for dyeing the hanks in different rounds.

Dyeing of yarn is performed in metallic dye bath of 200 litres capacity. 250 ml of the above dye solution is added to the water and boiled. The solution is heated for 20-30 minutes and the dyeing of yarns starts with by dipping of 6-8 hanks in dye bath and rotation. Husk powder is used as fuel. The hanks are gradually rotated by using another rod by lifting and rotating to ensure that the entire hank is dipped in appropriate quantity of dye bath. After 15 minutes of dyeing the hank yarn is raised through the same rod and using the other rod the hank is squeezed to ensure that the dye solution is retained back in the dye bath. For the next round of dyeing again 250 ml of the dye solution is added in the dye bath for color concentration and the above stated process is repeated.

Dyeing of Napthol Colors:-

                The Napthol color dyeing is done in cold water, where two solutions are prepared in two different baths, one consisting of the base and other the color. Napthol dyeing is used for dyeing the dark colors. The method of Napthol dyeing is very primitive, with deviations from the standard procedures. The first dye bath solution, called the color solution, is made by mixing 100 grams of Napthol powder, 50 grams of Caustic soda and 25 grams of soap liquid oil, in 15 litres of hot water. The second solution called the base solution is made in 15 litres of cold water mixing 10 grams of base powder, 50 grams of Sodium Nitrite, 100 grams of Alum powder and 100 ml of hydro choleric acid (Hcl). The two solutions are divided equally in two different baths for two rounds of dyeing. The yarn is first dyed in the color solution and squeezed. Later the same yarn is again dipped in the base colour solution and the same process is repeated, once again till the desired shade is obtained.

 

 

Removal of Excess Dye:

The yarn that is dyed or bleached is soaked in water in boiling temperature with soap solution and soda ash for about 15 minutes to ensure that all molecules of excess dye lying on the surface of the yarn comes out. Since a mere wash does not ensure the removal of excess dye, the soda ash and soap are added. The Venkatagiri weavers believe that the quality of water is highly conducive to effective dyeing process. The water is largely from ground water which is obvious from the numerous wells that are situated in almost every street.

 Drying:-

 

                The dyed hanks after squeezing are dried in open on bamboo sticks and after drying are packed shifted to the stores of the primary weaver co-operatives /master weavers.

 

 

Pre-Loom Activities:-

 

Pirn Winding:-

 

                The dyed hank yarns are put on the hand charka and wound on the thin iron /wooden Kande (Pirn) for its use in shuttle as weft yarn during the weaving process.

Vottulu ( Thirilu ) Winding:-  

                The zari, silk, and cotton yarn is winded on vottulu for their use in between the warp yarns for the Jamdhani weaving as extra weft mainly for the ornamentation purpose. 

 

Dabba (Pipe) Winding:-

 

                For preparation of warp beam the hank yarn is wound on the plastic Dabba (Pipe) rods, and the process is known as Bobbin winding. At some of the households this process being mechanized. 

 

Warp Beam Preparation:-

 

                The warp beam is prepared for four pieces of saree at a time. The beam is prepared for the Cotton yarns. The cotton yarn beam is prepared on a very big giant wheel of 5 meters diameter, made of Bamboos and threads. Warp required for four sarees are prepared at a time. Thirty Dabbas are used at a time for preparation of one warp. One warp is 25 to 30 yards in length ( 25 in case of sarees without blouse and 30 yards in case of sarees with blouse). The wheel is marked with a thread market for the extent of rotation. The wheel is not given one complete revolution; it is rotated to 90% of the circumference. The wheel is rotated once clock wise and in the next round clock wise, this process generates two layers of warp amounting to yarn required for 2 sarees on the top and equal amount on bottom, which later cut after sizing. The final warp beam has 1880 X 2 yarns in the width of 47 inches. Two persons are engaged in case of cotton yarn.

 

Zari Warping:-

                Zari Warping is done on small sectional warping machines by few specialized persons and in some places by the weaver himself.

Street Sizing:-

                This activity is done at every street of Bangarpet and the weaving localities of Venkatagiri. The two ends of the warp yarn tied to threads held on wooden log and the other end to a steel / GI rod. The two ends are tied to iron rods pegged on road through a rope and the yarn is raised by a set of bamboo sticks by positioning them in X shape, called Voodhi locally. Firstly the yarns separated by brushing and manual settings using bamboo sticks, this done first on the top layer and then reversing the side to the other end.  Later starch solution made from the rice powder is sprayed through machine twice on the top and twice on the bottom layers. The yarn is again brushed and the process is repeated three to four times till the yarn gets stiff. The sized yarn is dried and later after drying, the yarn ends are cut and warp of four sarees of 25 – 30 yards is now ready for weaving.  Three persons are engaged for this process. 

 

 

Denting:-

 

The warp yarns are twisted and joined to the residual yarns of the reed of the looms directly and this process is called denting.  This is done by aged ladies alone separately and is a one day activity.

 

 

Street Warping :-

The warp setting is done on streets by initially stretching the dented warp beam of entire 25 – 30 yards of yarn from one end to the other by raising the yarn on bamboo sticks and tying the two ends to bamboos. At one end there is yarn dented with the reed and Acchulu, tied to the bamboo stick, which in turn is tied to an iron rod pegged in road through a rope. From the other end the yarn is slowly rolled on to wooden log called as Padugu Dhoni, after the yarns are properly set on Bentu (a reed like device). This is now transferred on to the loom for weaving. Three to four persons are engaged in this activity, among them one is the weaver himself. This activity is done only in the mornings and evenings.

 

 

Loom Setting:-

The ready to weave warp yarn with the reed and Acchulu is set on the loom with the locking of the dobby yarns by simple cross winding. Necessary setting is carried out for weaving Butas. This process is done by the weaver himself and it takes around half an hour for carrying out the same.

Loom Technology:-

                The traditional Venkatgiri plain cotton zari Sarees and also the Cotton Jamdhani sarees are manufactured on a simple plain pit looms with fly shuttles. The highly skilled weaver’s weave Jamdhani sarees without attachments like the Dobby / Jacquard. 

Weaving:-

Plain:- The weaving of Venkatagiri Zari sarees is done on fly shuttle pit looms. Some these  looms are fitted  with Dobbies of 24 levers,  with 2 -3 pedals (Traddles) and Jacquards with 120 – 240 hooks. After the cotton yarn is set up the Zari yarn is set on to the loom separately in such a way that it does not get entangled with the cotton yarns. The weaving operation starts with the movement of pedals. Once, one the pedal is pressed, one of the two Aachullu rises and a set of warp yarns raise. The weft shuttle moves from left to right side. The slay is given a beat /movement. Now the second pedal is pressed and this raises another pair of yarns and now the shuttle is moved from right to left again and slay is moved. Seventy such beatings give one inch of woven fabric. To have stiffness and desired strength in the woven fabric it is stretched through a Chedumullu (Temple) ( A curved bamboo stick  attached to the fabric with threads tied to springs). The butas are woven manually at appropriate intervals as per the saree design. The position of butas are changed each columns.  Once two feet of fabric is woven the woven fabric is rolled on to Pedakolu, a wooden rod. Then the iron rod is set loose through loosening of rope to pull the warp yarn for weaving.  The movement of this rod is controlled with a rope tied to Pedukola, on which the weaved fabric is rolled upon. Later the rod is held tight through tying of rope. This is the pattern for plain weaving. For stripes the weft yarns of white & red Zari different colors are used, and this produces stripes in the Sarees. 

Jamdhani :– In Jamdhani fabrics, the design appear similar on both the sides.  Jamdhani Cotton & Silk Sarees are weaved at Venkatagiri and the method of weaving here is popular by the name ANI butta weaving.  In simple language, the Jamdhani effect comes through an extra weft yarn. This is basically done manually using the yarn rolled on thirilu, after the shuttle movement in each of the direction in the same lease (ANI). Basically two ends of the warp yarns are drawn in each grove of the dent. While inserting the extra weft, the warp yarns are lifted according to the design and the yarn in the right end is taken down tactfully through the other yarn in the dent and vice versa. This is done for easy identification of the location of next extra weft insertion. This ensures that the extra weft inserted in a specific grove comes out of the same grove with lock. This process is called the ANI BUTTA weaving and this produces the Jamdhani effect. This effect is clearly possible if the weaving is purely manual, in the event of using Jacquard, a semi Jamdhani effect is seen.

Finishing:-

 

The woven sarees are cut, from the looms are dusted to clean the thread waste.   Later the loose yarn if any on the saree are  trimmed and finally given a proper folding.

Uniqueness:-

                The uniqueness of Venkatgiri saree can be detected at every stage of the production from the finest raw material used to process of weaving, the tools, preparatory process. The uniqueness identified are 

• Zari Border:- Every saree woven in the Venkatagiri will have a Zari border in at least one of the side of the saree, in a big, medium or small size depending upon the design pattern. Use of both red and white zari, in the same or different products is also one of the uniqueness in itself.
• Uni Color:- Venkatagiri Cottton saree means a uni color saree. The desingn in border and Pallu comes out with the use of Zari.
• ANI Weaving:- The above defined ANI weaving technique of Jamdhani Butta weaving is the local weaving skill.
• Fold:- The Cotton & Mercerized cotton sarees of Venkatgiri saree are given a longitudinal folds with white paper covers.
• Preparatory Works:- Small quantities of Coconut oil is mixed with the starch solution during the second round of spray, in Sizing to ensure the smoothness in the yarn. The same is noted while denting of yarn.
• Texture: – If the state fabrics are rated on the basis of texture, Venkatagiri sarees would top the index. The texture of the fabric comes out of the weaver’s skill in weaving and the fine counts of the cotton yarns.
• Light Weight:- Due to the use of the fine counts of yarns the sarees are lighter in weight and it is one of the attribute that has retained the customers, in spite of introduction of many fashionable and alternatives.    
• Indigenous Tools:- For weaving the weavers have fabricated some of the instruments to their requirements which have specific use, like the Iron rod hooks for holding the Jala Yarns. Similarly some wooden attachments for heavy design works. Similarly the Chedumullu for giving tensile strength to the woven fabric.

 

• Extra Warp & Extra Weft product:-

The extra warp is through the golden colour Zari yarn and the extra weft is through the Buttas.

The other notable features of Venkatagiri sarees  are:-

(a) Soft cotton sarees, fine to touch, with elaborate zari work, of high quality.

(b) Bold colours, which do not run after w ash.

(c) Ideal for hot weather due to the uniform fine texture.

(d) Delicate embroidery work.

(e) Sarees can be used for multipurpose occasions from daily wear to festive occasions.

 

Quality checking:- 

After weaving, the Sarees are checked for quality. The quality appraisers in the societies / Master weavers check the Sarees.  The following are the check points:

 

• The length & Width of the Saree should be as per the specification given in the order (+ or – 2 cm allowed), otherwise it will be rejected.
• The reed, pick is checked, so also the weight of the Durries
• Any left out residual coming yarns due to yarn joints are pricked and smoothed.

 

Marketing

 

The Venkatgiri Zari Cotton Sarees enjoy the highest brand image in the state domestic markets in the coastal belt. More than 50% of the cluster produce is marketed by the small scale master weavers even today by door to door sales and supply rather than directly supply to the shops. The cotton saree are marketed by and large in the Coastal belt and the Silk to the Telangana region. It is estimated that 20% of the total cotton saree produce are marketed in the four metros namely Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai. The state apex marketing agency procures around 5 – 10% of the total cluster produce in both the silk and cotton segments. The advantage that the product enjoys is fixed customers base with repetitive purchases. The market for the product is so strong that even today; if the production is triple overnight the product would be absorbed immediately. The demand is raising and the production levels are falling.   

Stakeholders’ Statistical overview:-

 

Profile:- The chunck of the Venkatagiri handloom industry is in the control of Master Weavers and total turnover of the industry is estimated to be Rs 50 Crore industry, from all the folds ( Non Co-operative & Co-operative). SPSR Nellore district has a total of 44 primary handloom weaver co-operatives and of them 18 are located in Venkatagiri mandal. The vibrancy of the handloom industry can be seen in shape of street warping, loom setting activities and through the echos of the pirn winding, Loom beating sounds at Bangarpet and the other weaver centric wards of the Venkatagiri town. The cluster has three Yarn Dealers, 3 dyers, Ten Warping and Ten sizing centres, ample old women carrying Denting activities,   1500 weavers weaving silk, 1000 weavers weaving Cotton and about ten big master weavers with transactions above a crores and 200 small and medium master weavers, Three Designers with CAD/CAM devices & spare part supplies, Two yarn and dye stuff dealers and Seven National Award winners. 

Linkages:- In the business activities, at Venkatgiri, sale of loom accessories, loom parts, usable items like reeds, pirns, shuttles, yarn, Dye stuff and chemicals traders constitute a major segment. The cluster has very well established forward and the backward linkages, and different stake holders, in shape of loom suppliers, carpenters, Dobby & Jacquard suppliers, their service men, Designers for setting Dobbies, etc.     

                Earnings:- The cluster has dyers, separate workers for each of the pre loom activity like sizing warp beam making, denting, loom setting, Butas, Designers for Dobby setting. Each of these section workers have adequate work for a period of 20 days a month and earn Rs 250 – Rs 300/- per day. The main problem is faced during the monsoon season and on the days of rains, as these works cannot be done on streets and the cluster has not developed any adequate infrastructure for faci

ng such odds. The minimum monthly earning of a cotton weaver doing plain varieties is estimated to be around Rs 5000/- and that of a silk weaver is estimated to be around Rs 6000/- to 8000/- . The Jamdhani weavers earnings are to the tune of Rs 10,000/- to Rs 15,000/- provided they work consistently. In wages, the cluster is used as a base reference in the entire state. 

 

 Transition:- Like the other clusters, Venkatagiri seems to be drifting away from its traditional base of Cotton Zari sarees, by introducing mercerized cotton, Cotton-Silk and the Silk Sarees. The skill levels seems to be moving in reverse direction for the market pull as weaving with ability of weaving 200s, 160s, 140s, 120s & 100s seem to be shifting now to 80s. With the transition to silk, the cluster persons lost considerable work in shape of the dyeing and the Preparatory activity of the silk yarns, which now takes place at Kanchivarm, in Tamilnadu. The part of Cotton dyeing and the preparatory activities are carried out at Venkatgiri. The warp of Saree with dual color are dyed at Chirala, limiting the dyeing activity.

 

Futuristic View:- The stake holders are of the view that the Handloom industry has come down by nearly by 50% to what it was prior to the economic liberalization. In 1971, here were 70,000 looms in the entire district and now there are only 9000 in the district.   They are of the opinion that unless, government intervenes to protect appropriate wages to the weaver in the handloom industry, it is difficult to arrest the decline  of the weavers leaving away the handloom weaving profession. Situation is so worst that young cotton weavers are not offered brides for marriage, in spite of the fact that the product has good brand image in market.

 

Expectations:-

The expectations of the stakeholders from the state & central governments which have evolved during the Focused Group Discussions are:-

1. Training in Jamdhani:- Jamdhani is known and practiced by very few weavers. The cluster eagerly looks for some training with certificate and buy back provisions for a minimum period of three months under ISDS scheme, through M/s APCO.
2. Marketing Infrastructure:- Provision of Netha Baazars for marketing support to the small weavers and small master weavers on rotation basis as done in Guntur and Mahboobnagar districts in unified AP.

• Other Suggestions:-
  1. Development of Infrastructure:-The preparatory activities get a major jolt during the monsoon season and the cluster badly needs infrastructure in shape of one big shed for carrying out the pre-loom activities.
  2. National Study to assess decline of handlooms and Remedial Approach.

 

 LOCAL HANDLOOM TERMINOLOGY

• Dimma:- The wooden stand
• Pantalam:-  The revolving device on which hanks are placed
• Bangaram:- The Charka, wodden wheel.
• Dai Karralu:- The bamboo base used for sizing & for warp setting
• Nadi:- Shuttle
• Padugu:- Warp
• Peka:- weft
• Dhoni:- Beam
• Padugu Dhoni:- Cylindrical rod on which the warp yarn is winded.
• Gudda Dhoni:- Square type of rod on which the woven fabric is rolled.
• Palaka:- Slay
• Acchulu:- The wooden frame with cotton threads controlling the lifting of bunch of yarns.
•  Lekalu:- Beating bamboo sticks used in sizing, and warp setting.
• Tirugudu karra:- A cylindrical rod above the reed, on the back of slay, which enables  the butas weaving by raising yarns through raising the chuvvalu, enabling raising of Aacchulu through the pedal movement  and enabling working of Dobby.
• Pakodi Chekkalu:- The Pedals used for pressing.
• Panne:- Reed
• Kandelu:- Pirns
• Plastic Dabbalu:- The PVC pipe pieces  on which the yarn is wound for preparing warp beam.
• Chedumullu :-  A curved bamboo stick  attached to the fabric with threads tied to springs.
• Bentu:- The reed like device used while warping to enable smoothing avoiding entanglement of yarns by dividing warp sheet evenly.
• Voodthi:- The bamboo sticks base used for holding the yarns while sizing & warping.
• Aasu:- The device used for winding of the extra warp yarn.  

 

       Process Flow Chart: –

 

 

 

 

 

https://Tirupati.ap.gov.in/one-district-one-product/